To use a ordinary cyclerim for Cyclemaster

My original Cyclemasterim was warped and twisted and therefore I tried to use a ordinary 28" bicyclerim for my CM, but in desperation I discovered that the spokes bented like a drawn bow  and the risk of breaking when tighten was big.

The solution to the problem was to angle and countersink the nipple holes in the rim. I begin to make a mandrel and a suitable pad with a lathe. I placed the pad in a vice and angled the rim with help off a  nail in the side of the workingbench. Placing the nail so the spokeangle was the same as CM orginal rim. There are 36 spokes in the rim angled in the same direction in pairs (look and compare with orginal rim). Now I toke the hammer and taped on the mandrel just enough to countersink the holes to make the nipple fit. This was made with every other hole. Then the rim was turned around and every other 18 remaining holes was worked.

Mandrel and pad is made of 10mm steel and if required hardened. The pad is slightly rounded at the topp preventing it to make a sharp mark in the rim and make a edge at the bottom of the pad preventing it to slide in the vise. No dimension is critical. You have to try out depending what rim and workingbench you have. Dorn=mandrel, Dyna=pad, Skruvstäd=vise, Spik=nail, Fälg=rim

Good luck.  Harry Nilsson